Santa Cruz, Guatemala

 Middle-of-the-night wake-up, courtesy of the cat—apparently convinced this was her room—so she got evicted after she threw up. I did wake up early a few hours later in time to catch the sunrise.  It was a bit overcast, so not the most dramatic morning on the lake, but still peaceful.

With rain not expected until later, we set out on the hike to Santa Cruz. I’d read a few dramatic warnings online about “machete-bearing bandits,” especially on the upper trail, but a quick check with reception reassured us—and they were right. The path felt safe the entire time. We passed several other hikers, and the only person with a machete was a local calmly trimming greenery. The trail itself was well maintained, rolling up and down, and took about 45 minutes.

Along the way, we passed the lively Free Beer Hostel—easy to spot with young travelers gathered on the docks, playing games and already into their beers up on the terrace. They also had a really unique little hut perched over the lake that you could rent for about $75 a night—tempting…

Santa Cruz itself felt refreshingly untouristy. A sign noted a population of 1,340, and it really did feel like we were stepping into everyday life rather than a destination. In the main square, we watched what looked like a PE class in action while a few vendors sold veggies and fruits- mostly to locals, it seemed. We found a small bakery, picked up a couple of sweet rolls and cold drinks, and had a simple breakfast back in the square, just taking it all in.

The walk back was easygoing. I stopped often (probably too often) for photos of the lake and the volcanoes, and to catch my breath!

Back at Casa del Mundo, we leaned into the slower pace. A couple of beers from reception, a quiet balcony overlooking the lake—one of what feels like dozens scattered throughout the property, each somehow just as stunning as the last. I had planned this whole trip around getting a reservation here since it’s so hard to book, and while it’s not typically our style to sit and lounge, it feels like the kind of place where you make an exception. So that’s what we’re doing!

The rain rolled in during the afternoon, giving us the perfect excuse to retreat to the room and watch “The Orphans” with Kitty making a forgiven return and curling up on the bed. By dinner, the rain eased just enough for us to head down. My avocado veggie sandwich with fruit was fresh and delicious, and Scotty gave a solid thumbs-up to his cheeseburger and fries.

Rain picked back up as we made our way to the room—ending the day the same way it began: with the sound of it falling, this time a little more peaceful.