Santa Cruz, Guatemala

 Middle-of-the-night wake-up, courtesy of the cat—apparently convinced this was her room—so she got evicted after she threw up. I did wake up early a few hours later in time to catch the sunrise.  It was a bit overcast, so not the most dramatic morning on the lake, but still peaceful.

With rain not expected until later, we set out on the hike to Santa Cruz. I’d read a few dramatic warnings online about “machete-bearing bandits,” especially on the upper trail, but a quick check with reception reassured us—and they were right. The path felt safe the entire time. We passed several other hikers, and the only person with a machete was a local calmly trimming greenery. The trail itself was well maintained, rolling up and down, and took about 45 minutes.

Along the way, we passed the lively Free Beer Hostel—easy to spot with young travelers gathered on the docks, playing games and already into their beers up on the terrace. They also had a really unique little hut perched over the lake that you could rent for about $75 a night—tempting…

Santa Cruz itself felt refreshingly untouristy. A sign noted a population of 1,340, and it really did feel like we were stepping into everyday life rather than a destination. In the main square, we watched what looked like a PE class in action while a few vendors sold veggies and fruits- mostly to locals, it seemed. We found a small bakery, picked up a couple of sweet rolls and cold drinks, and had a simple breakfast back in the square, just taking it all in.

The walk back was easygoing. I stopped often (probably too often) for photos of the lake and the volcanoes, and to catch my breath!

Back at Casa del Mundo, we leaned into the slower pace. A couple of beers from reception, a quiet balcony overlooking the lake—one of what feels like dozens scattered throughout the property, each somehow just as stunning as the last. I had planned this whole trip around getting a reservation here since it’s so hard to book, and while it’s not typically our style to sit and lounge, it feels like the kind of place where you make an exception. So that’s what we’re doing!

The rain rolled in during the afternoon, giving us the perfect excuse to retreat to the room and watch “The Orphans” with Kitty making a forgiven return and curling up on the bed. By dinner, the rain eased just enough for us to head down. My avocado veggie sandwich with fruit was fresh and delicious, and Scotty gave a solid thumbs-up to his cheeseburger and fries.

Rain picked back up as we made our way to the room—ending the day the same way it began: with the sound of it falling, this time a little more peaceful.

Casa del Mundo Arrival

 We spent our last morning in Panajachel lounging in our Airbnb. After a típico lunch, we headed to the docks under overcast skies and a choppy lake. This time we had our suitcases with us—placed on top of the boat and, surprisingly, not even tied down. The boat was a little nicer with cushions and seat backs, and since I sat in the back, it didn’t feel quite as rough.

We arrived at Casa del Mundo and it truly is a beautiful hotel. The rooms are all unique, set at different heights along the hillside. We were in Room 11 and had to climb a lot of steps, but it was worth it. The room has Guatemalan décor, is quite spacious, and has a large balcony with a view of the volcanoes

The property itself is stunning, with winding stone walkways and incredible gardens. We explored a bit and made our way down to the swimming patio just as the rain started. It quickly turned into a downpour, and since our room was probably 100 steep steps up, there was no easy escape. Eventually, we had no choice but to run back in the rain.

We changed into dry clothes and, once the rain stopped, went down to the restaurant for a beer. We skipped dinner since we had a big lunch earlier. We ended the night watching a movie, and to make it even cozier, the resident cat came in and made herself comfortable on our bed.

San Pedro and San Juan at Lake Atitlan

We started our day with tortillas and cream cheese for breakfast, using leftovers from dinner the night before. At the market we also picked up orange juice and a strawberry drink for me. With an 80% chance of rain predicted starting at noon, we decided to get an early start.

We walked down to the boat docks and caught a water taxi to San Pedro La Laguna for 25 quetzals each (about $3). The water taxis travel between the towns around Lake Atitlán and hold about 20 passengers below deck. The ride was quite an experience—the boat sped across the waves and you had to hold on tight. I felt like my butt might end up bruised!

Once in San Pedro La Laguna, we walked around a bit. It already felt nicer than Panajachel—less busy and less touristy—with murals and Guatemalan vendors throughout town.

From there we walked about 15–20 minutes to San Juan La Laguna, known as the artistic town. Three well-known streets—the Street of Umbrellas, the Street of Sombreros, and the Street of Cultural Icons—are filled with colorful displays and murals. The village also has several textile cooperatives where we watched women weaving beautiful, colorful pieces. I ended up buying a scarf from one of the co-ops.

We stopped for lunch before heading back. Scotty had a typical meal-of-the-day plate with shrimp, fries, guacamole, tortillas, and a cranberry drink. I had chicken fajitas with vegetables and salad, along with a pineapple smoothie—everything was delicious.

After lots of walking, we headed back to the boat launch for another thrilling ride across the lake. Back at our Airbnb we relaxed for a while, then went out for a light dinner—rosé wine and a huge slice of bread pudding, which was really good. We even saved a piece for breakfast.

I finished the day with 28,858 steps—tired and happy.

Panajachel

We walked with our luggage to grab some lunchtime pastries and then headed to our meeting point. Because of the procession, the location had been changed, which meant a 25-minute walk over cobblestones and some nicely paved sidewalks. Our driver yelled out my name as soon as we arrived and loaded our bags right away—such a relief after a few earlier experiences of waiting and wondering.

After the shuttle ride, we were directed to a “taxi,” which turned out to be our first tuk-tuk ride. By now we’re used to the crazy traffic and crowded streets. It was a short ride but still cost 60 quetzales ($8), a bit higher than we’ve paid elsewhere so far.

Getting to our Airbnb felt like navigating a maze through narrow back alleys. The homes sit tightly together, built mostly of cinderblock. Our new place isn’t as luxurious as the last one, but it has everything we need: a bed, kitchen, futon couch, TV, and shower. We’re good.

Later we wandered down toward the lake and caught our first view of Lake Atitlán—it’s huge. We found a restaurant and each ordered the typical meal of the day. I had grilled chicken, Scotty had grilled fish, and we both enjoyed Guatemala’s national beer, Gallo.

Panajachel is not what I had envisioned. I kept thinking ‘village’ when it is a city. It is crowded, lots of tuk-tuks, motorcycles, sodas (small restaurants) and of course - vendors.  I’m hoping the other lakeside towns will fulfill my visions!

Antigua

 Another lovely breakfast—fresh fruit bowls and homemade bagels (from Linda’s friend). The young Scottish girl staying here said she woke up thinking about the breakfast!

We sat and talked with Linda and heard more of her story. In a few weeks she’ll be taking her unit off Airbnb and finally enjoying retirement. She also shared stories about her Guatemalan family. Years ago, she noticed a woman with no legs panhandling in the park every day. Linda eventually sat down and asked what had happened; the woman had been hit by a bus. It’s heartbreaking, but unfortunately not uncommon here. We saw many indigenous people selling their goods, and a noticeable number had some kind of disability. Every person seems to carry a story. One shopkeeper told us he rides 22 km from his village to Antigua each day. Linda said some vendors travel as long as three hours to get here. There are many mission trips that come to this area—it’s something I may look into when we get home.

Eventually we headed out to see the famous street carpets. They are beautiful and can take hours to create. The artists design a pattern and make cardboard stencils. The base can be pine needles or colored sawdust, then it’s decorated with flowers and grain. The carpets must be misted to keep them fresh before the procession arrives—then they are trampled by the parade! We only saw a few due to time constraints, but they were impressive. It makes me wonder if this is something we should return for someday.

The procession began with many participants in purple robes representing the church. Another group followed holding signs above their heads that seemed to depict scenes from the story of Christ. 

Four smaller floats carried by four people each passed by, carefully avoiding the carpets. 

Some participants carried lantern-like incense burners, filling the air with smoke. 

The highlight was a large float carried by about 20–30 people. It looked incredibly difficult to support. Some walkers even had their eyes closed, simply keeping pace with the group beside them.

Back at Linda’s we exchanged contact information, and she said we’d always be welcome to return. Nice to know!

Antigua

 Our Airbnb included breakfast, and it was wonderful. We had a fresh fruit salad—the pears were absolutely delicious—along with various rolls. It was the perfect energy to start the day.

We decided to begin with a hike to Cerro de la Cruz. It starts off steep, but the good thing is that it’s a paved sidewalk with steps, and the total distance is only about a mile. The reward at the top is a fantastic view overlooking Antigua Guatemala and views of a volcano.

From there we wandered all over the city—and by “all over,” I mean we probably saw most of the streets. At one point we stopped for a fruit slushy. We are definitely getting used to these smoothies!

The arch in Antigua is an iconic landmark built in the 17th century. It was designed to connect a convent with the school, allowing the nuns to pass without being seen.

Today we were lucky enough to see three different weddings at three different churches, a quinceañera, and a Lent procession. Apparently Antigua is a very popular wedding destination, and couples often book venues almost a year in advance.

A quinceañera is a celebration for a 15-year-old girl, symbolizing her transition into womanhood. It includes a religious ceremony followed by a reception. The young woman we saw wore a beautiful flowing red dress and graciously allowed me to photograph her.

Because Antigua is largely Catholic, there are many church processions during Lent in the weeks leading up to Holy Week. The floats in these processions can weigh up to 7,000 pounds. The people who carry them rotate throughout the parade because it’s such a demanding task. While watching one float pass by, I caught the eye of a young girl carrying it and gave her a thumbs-up. She smiled back and looked proud of herself.

The streets are decorated with elaborate “carpets”—intricate designs made from colored sawdust, pine needles, flowers, and other natural materials. These displays can take up to ten hours to create. If there are two processions in a single day, a second carpet will often be built for the next parade.

Later we had a late lunch at Restaurante Rinconcito. They were grilling the meat right inside the restaurant, and our table happened to be close to the grill—not ideal since we stayed pretty warm during the meal! Still, we thoroughly enjoyed the “meal of the day”: delicious roasted chicken with buttered potatoes, coleslaw and freshly made hot tamales.

We also wandered through the big market and several smaller ones. They were truly a feast for the eyes—bright colors everywhere, women in traditional dress, chubby-faced children, piles of flowers and spices, and beautiful Guatemalan textiles.

We torched the ruins of the capuchin convent. It had an interesting dormitory that was built in a circular fashion, and the nuns rooms were in this circle at the time the non-spent most of their time in their rooms praying.

The buildings in Antigua are brightly colored in keeping with its Spanish colonial heritage and to maintain a harmonious aesthetic as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s truly a quaint and beautiful city—although it was very crowded today with tourists, which apparently is the norm.