I had diligently set my alarm the night before — and then forgot to save it. Scotty’s phone hadn’t jumped ahead to the bew time zone. But, by some stroke of great luck, I still woke up at exactly 5:45 AM — the time we’d planned to get up. Everything was already packed, and the whole morning had the organized feeling of going on a field trip.
We drove 30 minutes to the harbor, then rode our bikes onto the ferry. It was clean, spacious, and even had a restaurant and an outdoor observation platform. The 90-minute ride was smooth and peaceful. We found a good seat and ate the breakfasts we’d brought enjoying the calm and quiet ride.
Once off the ferry, we turned right and pedaled toward the north end of Grand Manan Island. The gravel road led us to the Swallowtail Lighthouse. Though it wasn’t open, we were able to walk around the grounds. The views — rugged cliffs and endless sea — were beautiful and worth the ride.
Next, we followed signs to a nearby campground, where a trail led us to Hole in the Wall. The trail itself was quirky and delightful — weaving through spruce trees, climbing gently up and down along the rocky coastline. Along the way, we stumbled on art installations tucked among the trees, including a fabric-art piece near the entrance that read “Take Me Home.” It was part of a project from a group (I Foubd a Quilted Heart), and added a lovely handmade touch to the trail.
Then came the moment I almost became a Dateline special. We were heading down a steep hill when I realized… my brakes weren’t working. Suspicious, considering I live with a bike guy. I pulled over and convinced Scotty to take a look — and yep, they were incredibly loose. Disaster averted, but I’m still side-eyeing my mechanic.
We went to Pebble Beach, determined to find some sea glass. Luck was with us as we found about 10 pieces and some cool rocks.
Back on the road — Highway 776, which hugs the coastline — we stopped at several roadside art shops. Most were tiny sheds or porches filled with the work of local artists and their friends. There’s a homemade charm here that’s impossible to fake.
One of my favorite stops was the Grand Manan Art Gallery. Entry was only $2 Canadian ($1.50 U.S.). Scotty stayed outside enjoying trail mix while I explored the small but stunning gallery. Two oil painters, Helen Shideler and Dale Cook, had breathtaking seascape-themed pieces. There were also two acrylic artists with bright, whimsical work — the kind of paintings that make you feel lighthearted just looking at them. I left feeling incredibly inspired and determined to paint when I get home.
We biked on to Grand Harbor, where Scotty popped into the post office to hunt for newly minted Canadian coins (few had been released so far). I wandered across the street to visit the Deep Cove Schoolhouse, a one-room building dating back to 1842. I had to zip through the exhibit faster than I’d like — we were racing the clock to catch the return ferryz
We did make record time getting back, and celebrated with dinner at a small family restaurant near the wharf. I had classic fish and chips, while Scotty had a fish sandwich with poutine fries. Delicious — especially after a 21-mile ride.
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