Touring - Zagreb

 We were able to park easily and for free on a side street. We were next to a beautiful grassy lawn manicured with flowers. We later learned that there are 3 parks that form a horseshoe and are designed to be earthquake safe areas (away from buildings). Compared to the rest of Croatia that we’ve seen, this us a busy metropolitan area. We took a free tour with Ivana and she was excellent!

Croatia has a population of about 3.5 million, with 800,000 living in the capital, Zagreb.

Interestingly, Croatia is credited with inventing the tie. During the Thirty Years’ War, mothers made silk ties for their sons heading off to battle, and the accessory eventually spread across Europe.

Zagreb itself began as two medieval villages. During the Thirty Years’ War, the poorer section was burned down, shaping the city’s early history.

One of the city’s most recognizable landmarks is St. Mark’s Church, often nicknamed the “Lego Church” because of its colorful tiled roof. Originally built in the 11th century, it was designed by a German architect.

A local word to know is fiaka, which means “take it easy”—an attitude woven into daily life.

By the 19th century, church bells were used to help people be more punctual, but the bell ringers themselves were often late. To solve the problem, a cannon was purchased and fired every day at noon, which then prompted the churches to ring their bells. The tradition continues to this day.

Croatia’s modern history has been turbulent. During World War II, the country was aligned with Nazi Germany. In 1945, it was liberated and became part of communist Yugoslavia, which lasted until 1991. Under Tito’s rule for 35 years, Yugoslavia held together seven national groups and three religions.

In 1991, both Slovenia and Croatia declared independence, sparking attacks by the Yugoslav People’s Army (Serbian-led). This began the Croatian Homeland War, lasting until 1995. Zagreb itself was bombed during this time, with strikes aimed at killing as many civilians as possible. Today, Croatia still has no official history museums dedicated to this period.

Within the Lower Town, you’ll find Kravi Most—or the “Bloody Bridge”—the site of battles between the two medieval settlements that eventually united into Zagreb. Nearby is Dolac Market, the city’s lively farmers’ market, built over what was once a cemetery.

Local specialties include štrukli, often described as a Croatian-style mac and cheese, and small-plate Croatian tapas.

The city’s cathedral has been under renovation almost continuously since the 11th century. In the 19th century it was rebuilt, but because of its relatively “young” age, it doesn’t qualify for UNESCO funding. Constructed from inexpensive limestone, it suffers constant water damage. Its two towers have also had their own dramatic history: after an earthquake, one cross fell while the other was left dangling. Engineers eventually had to use dynamite to bring it down safely.

Touring - Samobor

 On our way to Zagreb, we realized it was only a short drive, so we decided to stop in a random town and chose Samobor, just across the Croatian border. It turned out to be larger than we expected, yet still very pretty. In the town square, a man stopped us—probably noticing the camera around my neck—and told us about the French influence on the town. Scotty, hoping for one last piece of “Bled cake” before leaving the continent, found exactly what he wanted in an ice cream parlor. He enjoyed his cake, I enjoyed my ice cream, and I think we made the man’s day when I took photos of both treats. A perfect little stop.

These markers ran along at least one wall surrounding the church. Dates of death were between 1991 and 1995 - the Bosnian war.

Touring - Ljubljana

 Yesterday evening, we took an evening tour of the city. I really like this city because it is not that big, walkable and pretty. We had another hood tour guide - this one with the company ‘Free Tours’. Here is some of what I learned.

Slovenia, a country of just two million people, feels both intimate and full of depth. Its capital, Ljubljana, has around 300,000 residents and radiates a calm, welcoming spirit. People walk and cycle everywhere, and the city is filled with green spaces, including Tivoli Park, which feels like Ljubljana’s own Central Park.

Slovenia ranks among the safest countries in the world, yet beneath its peaceful surface lies a long and layered history. People lived here over 6,000 years ago, building stilt houses above lakes. The Romans later settled the area, followed by the medieval castle that still stands watch on the hill. In the 16th century, Baroque architecture flourished, most famously in the pink Franciscan church in the city center. Later, touches of Art Nouveau arrived, shaping Ljubljana’s unique blend of styles.

At the heart of the city is a statue of poet France Prešeren, whose words in Zdravljica (“A Toast”) became Slovenia’s anthem. His muse, Julija Primic, is remembered beside him. Slovenia itself is young as a nation, gaining independence in 1991 after centuries under Austrian, Hungarian, and Venetian rule. The transition was remarkably swift: a ten-day war, democracy, and later the adoption of the euro.

Ljubljana’s character owes much to architect Jože Plečnik, who designed the Triple Bridge and the riverside market, now a UNESCO site. In 2007, the city center became fully pedestrian, turning streets into lively gathering spaces. The cathedral, rebuilt in the 18th century, holds rich baroque interiors, while its bronze doors, added in 1996, tell the story of Slovenia’s past. The Town Hall, built in 1744, still serves its original purpose.

With affordable education, a vibrant student presence, and a spirit that values both tradition and progress, Ljubljana feels timeless yet alive — a city where history and everyday life meet in harmony.

Soca Gorge and Kozjak Waterfall

 We left our little village early and headed down the mountain to Kobarid. We headed into the woods, eventually over a beautiful, clear mountain stream. At times, we passed over wooden bridges and up rocky steps. There was one point where the rocky path was narrow and a steel rope was there to hold onto. The gorge narrowed and finally we encountered the most mysterious chamber with a beautiful waterfall cascading down. 

From there, we hiked along the Soca River. This river is beyond words. The water is a Caribbean blue and so much more vivid against the white rocks. So, so lucky to see these beautiful marvels of nature!

Hiking - Dreznika, Croatia

 We started our hike right from our apartment and headed up a path. Unfortunately, we got a little turned around and ended up in a woman’s backyard. She just laughed—apparently this happens often—and her little boy kindly pointed us back up the hill and on our way. Soon we reached the overlook at Male Skale, which always overwhelms me with its sweeping views of the mountains and valleys.

A bit farther along, we came to two waterfalls: Slap Sopota and Slap Krampez. Like every other waterfall in Slovenia, they were beautiful, and by now we’ve honestly lost count of how many we’ve seen! Our next stop was—of all things—a rock. Yes, a rock. But not just any rock: Koseška Debela Peč, a massive boulder that had apparently tumbled down with the glaciers. By the time we looped back, we had covered 4.4 miles—a small hike for us. We returned to our apartment to regroup.

Later, Scotty mapped out what he promised would be a short, easy hike to a waterfall and a gorge. Instead, we found ourselves trudging through weeds, along a rough gravel path, across someone’s field, and past fly-infested horses. We never did find a waterfall, but somehow, it was still a great hike.

Hiking - Soca Gorge

 This pristine gorge is one of the most beautiful natural sights on the Soča River and an important natural treasure of the Triglav National Park.

The emerald green pools are intertwined into a 750-metre-long meticulously smoothed out gorge that is only a few metres wide and 15 metres deep.  

It was raining and we only hiked about one mile.

Touring -Russian Chapel

At the picturesque wooden Orthodox chapel by the road which leads across the highest Slovenian road pass, Vršič, one cannot but notice the inscription ‘To the Sons of Russia’ on the pyramid over the tomb. It is dedicated to Russian POWs who were captured on the Eastern Front and brought to the Julian Alps. In very difficult circumstances they had to construct, in a mere half of the year 1915, the urgently needed road connection from Kranjska Gora over the pass of Vršič (1,611 m) to Trenta. The road was essential for supplying Austro-Hungarian units on the Isonzo Front and for transporting the wounded away. Because of the huge masses of snow, an avalanche was triggered from the slopes of Mt. Mojstrovka early in 1916 and engulfed several hundreds of men. The Russian chapel was built by the Russian war prisoners in the memory of the many perished fellow prisoner, as a reminder of the sufferings of war.

Touring - Lake Jezersco

 The little heart-shaped lake was made by local inhabitants in memory of a larger glacial lake that had drained away, and after which Jezersko got its name.