We had made our online reservations for Plitvice Lakes at 8:00 a.m., and I’m glad we did. I had read it’s best to arrive early, and that proved true—by the time we were leaving, we saw several large tour groups arriving.
How do I even begin to describe this national park? I think one of the T-shirts we saw said it best: “Heaven on Earth.” Plitvice is home to more than 90 waterfalls, with an upper and a lower lake formed by natural tufa—limestone that has built up into walls and terraces over centuries. We hiked about nine miles through this wonderland, took a serene boat ride across one of the lakes, and even hopped on the little train that carries visitors back to the entrance. Every moment was breathtaking.
From there, we drove just 30 minutes to Rastoke Village, built around the Slunj River. Since we didn’t have Wi-Fi while traveling, we weren’t able to purchase the €5 entry ticket online. That was fine, though, because we could see most of the waterfalls from the bridge and trail above. By then, we were hungry and went in search of dinner—and lucked out with the perfect spot: a small roadside pizzeria. We ordered a pizza topped with pancetta, truffle sauce, and four cheeses, along with our usual lemon Radlers. Honestly, it might have been the best pizza I’ve ever eaten.















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