From Kravica Waterfalls, it was a short drive to our next hotel, Villa Fortuna. The approach was a nightmare—narrow streets, two-way traffic, and cars parked along the sides. I’m sure there are plenty of scrapes and accidents on that road. Thankfully, a lovely woman checked us in, and we were relieved to find a parking lot attached to the hotel.
We immediately set out on foot toward the old town. It was packed with tourists, most brought in by minibuses from Dubrovnik and elsewhere. We saw Stari Most, the city’s famous bridge, and snapped a few pictures. From there we visited the War and Genocide Museum—a very sobering experience. It featured testimonies and videos from people who had lived through the conflict, which was fought between Croatians, Bosniaks, and Serbs.
The effects of the war are still visible all around Mostar. On our walking tour with Ivan, our free-tour guide (we love these tours—they’re usually led by young people and it’s a great way for them to make extra money), we saw many destroyed buildings, still standing since the war ended in 1995. Ivan explained that the city lacks funds to restore them, as housing is a greater priority than reconstruction.
Before our tour, we had a late lunch/early dinner and tried some typical Bosnian food. Scotty ordered ćevapčići (grilled beef sausages) with pita bread, while I went for a mixed plate. It came with stuffed cabbage, stuffed pepper, stuffed onion, a meatball-like patty, rice, and rice with tonatoes, peppers, peas and carrots that I think is Djuvec Rice. That last dish ended up being my favorite.
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